Endless Summer Surf Adventure
Follow My Journey to Learn to Surf at 55. It all Starts Now!
As someone who has always been fascinated by the idea of surfing, I decided to embark on my own Endless Summer Surf Adventure. This story is not new to you, I tried last spring. I am a 55-year-old former athlete and skater punk. Despite my apprehension, I am determined to make my dream of surfing a reality. I am also going to share with you this incredible journey. Watch for videos on my YouTube channel.
The first step towards achieving my goal is getting back into shape. While it won't be easy, it's an essential part of becoming a competent surfer. Especially if I eventually want to stand up. My knees are not the greatest and I am packing on some extra weight! The first step, just start moving more. I have set up my apple watch to track activity. Weekly I will be swimming, walking and core body weight tabata to build strength. The workouts on on the STARK fitness app. I have developed a workout routine that focuses on building strength and endurance, so I can spend more time in the water and catch more waves. I'll be sharing this routine in a future video.
The next step is to practice my surfing skills. I'll be starting at a small sandy beach break in the coastal area of Cancun, Mexico. It's a popular spot for beginners like me, with gentle waves that are a little mushy at times but I will be able to practice. The first trip is next week. Already purchased the ticket. The first steps will be getting in the water with my boogie board and just getting used to being in small sandy beach breaks and moving with the water. Once I have been a few times I intend to take a few lessons to get myself standing up on an 8 foot foam board. Last winter I went to Cancun with High Life Mexico and failed at my first lessons. Since then I am 20 lbs lighter and have better core strength.
I'll be filming myself with various cameras while on this adventure. Currently I have a GoPro Hero 8, a Sony A6100 ( I am looking for an underwater housing for this if anyone has a suggestion - So far I am looking at SeaFrog and DomeXL) and my iPhone. Not a bad stack. Not the most updated equipment, however each piece will totally do the job. Lastly I have a drone. Now I dont expect I will be the one on the drone when I am learning to surf, but… I love overhead footage so… We will se who can help me film.
While I am literally learning in Cancun, I will also be learning to read the waves, learning to paddling more efficiently, and to stand up faster and smoother once I get to that stage. Watching the pros, they of course are so smooth you barely see them transition from their bellies to the stance. I'll be spending a lot of time practicing and perfecting these skills. I'll be out on the water, paddling on a paddle board, and practicing the stand-up and subsequent falls. While it will take a lot of time and effort, I am determined to make it happen. I stood up on the paddle board from a surf position slowly just the other week. Practce, Practice, Practice!!!
When I lived in SoCal, I would body board at dog beach in Huntington. I was too afraid of local rules and being a kook to take out my surfboard then. Fear will not drive my new goals. Riding the waves towards shore, being pushed by the force of the water rising up from underneath the surface. Nothing is greater. I want, nay NEED to stand up! To feel the thrill and excitement of surfin, of riding the wave to the inside.
My first inspirations were watching the film by Bruce Brown, Endless Summer. Seeing those boys discover lost breaks, roaming endlessly without a care eexcpet the next wave the next break. Maybe I am romanticzing it but… I want to experience the thrill of surfing in different parts of the world, meeting new people, and experiencing new cultures along the way. The Endless Summer movies have been a source of inspiration for many surfers around the world, and I am no exception. It has motivated me to pursue my dreams and to never give up.
So tune in here where I will post updates and plans for the travel I will do to seek out warm water beginner beach breaks around the globe.